For a 90th year, the bright orange cart with the rainbow umbrella will be parked on Pittsburgh’s North Side.
So will Gus Kalaris, 92.
Known as the “Ice Ball Man,” Kalaris sitting on a stool by the stand is a welcome sight every spring. He will greet customers around noon Saturday as he has done for more than seven decades at Gus & Yiayia’s ice ball cart near Allegheny Commons West Park.
“My dad loves opening day,” said his daughter Christina Avlon. “He loves seeing everyone. People worry about him when he isn’t there. He loves everything about being there.”
The cart is opening later than usual because of all the rain in April, Avlon said. Also, her dad is slowing down so the plan is to adjust the schedule.
They will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays through the end of May and move to five days a week in June, weather permitting. It’s best to check the Facebook page for schedule updates.
“I love opening day, too,” said Avlon, who turns 68 on Saturday. “It will be great to see everyone.”
Like their dad, Avlon and her sister, Penny Pefanis, grew up with Gus & Yiayia’s. Kalaris’ parents brought him to West Park as a baby. He slept in a blanket on one of the benches. He was 8 years old when he first helped.
The girls’ mother, Stella, also helped with the business while also keeping everything running smoothly at home in Brighton Heights, Avlon said. Stella died in 2016. The family created a scholarship to honor Stella which is presented annually through the Northside Leadership Conference.
He took over the business in 1951 from his father, George, who started it in 1934. “Yiayia,” the Greek word for grandmother, first referred to Gus’ mother, Pauline, and then Stella.
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Over the years, there have been six carts. Kalaris built four of them, his dad built the other two. The most recent one, an Amish cart, is made of hard rock maple.
Avlon said having Michael Spanos as the manager is wonderful. He helps get all the supplies together and the cart to its familiar spot where it has been since 1963 when it moved from a location near Allegheny Center.
“Michael is part of our family,” Avlon said. “He has been part of this business for more than 20 years. We respect his work ethic and dedication to the business.”
Kalaris’ dedication has been recognized by the North Side Elks and Northside Leadership Conference. Ten years ago this week, he received a proclamation from the City of Pittsburgh. He has also been given the William Rimmel Award from the Allegheny City Society, which recognizes an individual or organization for “outstanding achievement in preserving and interpreting the history of that portion of the City of Pittsburgh that was the City of Allegheny.“
In November 2021, the Carnegie Science Center, now the Daniel G. and Carole L. Kamin Science Center, debuted its newest model at the Miniature Railroad & Village: Gus & Yiayia’s ice ball stand.
When Avlon talked to her dad about opening day of the season, he was so happy, she said. He is getting ready to shake hands, kiss babies and have his picture taken with people who stop by and ask for a photo.
On the menu will once again be three items: flavored ice balls, peanuts and popcorn.
Kalaris still helps make the flavors, a mix of simple syrup with food coloring and extract.
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He knows a lot of the customers by name as well as their favorite ice ball flavor. Generations of families stop year after year.
“He said to me, ‘those are my people,’ ” Avlon said. “I told him, ‘I know dad. They are your people.’ We all love the North Side. We respect all our customers and they respect us. That is our happy place. ‘People look for us there,’ my dad told me.”
Yes, Gus, they do. And the bright orange cart with the rainbow umbrella.
JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a TribLive reporter covering the region’s diverse culinary scene and unique homes. She writes features about interesting people and a weekly column about things to do in Pittsburgh. The Edward R. Murrow award-winning journalist began her career as a sports reporter. She has been with the Trib for 26 years and is the author of “A Daughter’s Promise.” She can be reached at jharrop@triblive.com.